It's been a shitty couple of days, I won't lie. Luckily, nothing cures the blues like hiking. As it happens, it's my full time job now. Since I don't want to just sit around camp by myself, I've decided to hike under this full moon light until I'm too exhausted to stay awake. That might be in a mile, or maybe not until I get to CT in 40 miles. Either way I'll be in CT this weekend.
We Have a Winner!
In just 18 minutes, through chants of "Lard-ass! Lard-ass! Lard-ass!" (like in the movie Stand By Me that we all watched earlier today.) Super Bubba has become the first thru-hiker to conquer the Godzilla Omlete Challenge in 2011.
"Want anything for dessert?" the waitress asked him.
"Yeah, could I get a chocolate cake and like, an entire peach cobbler?" he said. "And maybe a stretcher?"
Two others also finished, one with only 16 seconds to go. It's never been more exciting to watch someone eat.
Competitive Eating
The Godzilla Omelette Challenge at the Misty Moon Diner is underway. Participants must eat a 12 egg omlete with every filling item on the menu, plus home fries and toast. It has to be eaten in 30 minutes or less. My money is on Super Bubba, not pictured. Five hikers are taking the challenge, nobody has completed the challenge all year. I'll post again in 30 minutes or less with the results.
The Birdcage in Dalton MA
Staying at the home of Rob Bird tonight. Another great person who opens their home to thru-hikers. Rob has had about 350 hikers in his home this year. "All you hikers give us old people a reason to be," he said. His first thru-hiker he met by a gas station on a rainy day who was looking for a cheap place to stay. None existed in town at the time, so Rob invited him over. He has since shared his home with over 4,000 hikers and has never asked for a dime in return. He hasn't advertised this service, but word of his generosity spreads along the trail quickly every year. I first heard about Rob probably 500 miles ago.
I took this picture right after everyone in the room was loudly singing Wagon Wheel with Rob on guitar. It's on my list of favorite moments on the trail.
Thank you Rob and Nancy for your hospitality!
Mount Greylock
AT Day 74: Bennington, VT
AT Day 74: Bennington, VT, a set on Flickr.
AT Day 22 and 23: Hangover Day
AT Day 22 and 23: Hangover Day, a set on Flickr.
Biking in Bennington
Arla happened to have three bikes, which she let us ride into town. We took a little tour of the covered bridges and other historic sites, that are luckily still standing after the storm. We also went downtown and saw Arla's current bicycle art exhibit on display. We'll be heading out tomorrow, but not before checking out the Garlic and Herb Festival going on this weekend. I hear they sell garlic ice cream there. I can't leave town without first finding out why the hell they would do that.
A Homeless Door
I wonder what that door was attached to before the flood...
Got to Bennington, VT today where we found out we still couldn't get back on the trail until further notice, so we will continue hitching ahead a few miles to the first town or trailhead in MA. Bennington was hit pretty hard, but the rivers are low again and clean up has been in progress for a few days. Unfortunately more rain is on the way and the ground is still very saturated.
Got to Bennington, VT today where we found out we still couldn't get back on the trail until further notice, so we will continue hitching ahead a few miles to the first town or trailhead in MA. Bennington was hit pretty hard, but the rivers are low again and clean up has been in progress for a few days. Unfortunately more rain is on the way and the ground is still very saturated.
After Irene
The Green Mountains, which are home to most of the AT in Vermont, has been closed. We've been told there is a $5000 fine if we try to get back on the trail here, so unfortunately we have to hitch ahead to MA. We will miss a few miles, but I'll come back to do them someday.
Spruce Peak Cabin
I slipped on my headlamp and had a look around. A wood burning stove sat between two sleeping platforms, above which were two lofts. In the corner between two windows was a table, worn from 27 years of thru-hiker meals and socializing. The girls walked in behind me. "Okay guys, here's the plan," Thumper said. "We go into town and get jobs, winter here, and finish the trail in the spring," First of all, I love when someone says, "Here's the plan". One, it means something great could be getting ready to happen. And it means I don't have to come up with a plan myself. I have to admit, I don't hate her idea. Living in a cabin in the mountains has been a dream I've held even longer than my dream to hike the AT. I love this place. And love that they love it too. We'll leave soon, maybe we'll come back someday.
Hurricane Irene
Picture from yesterday morning. With news of Hurricane Irene we decided to hunker down in a shelter for the day. We got to Big Branch Shelter, perched high above a babbling brook, away from dead branches and trees. We sat up all night in our three-walled home playing cards and watching the rain come down.
By morning, the brook rose several feet becoming an angry river that could have carried cars miles downstream and destroyed houses. Luckily we were safe above the high water mark, another reason we stayed there. Talking meant having to scream over the sound of the river and thunder that shook the floor, so we mostly stayed in the 18x8' shelter reading quietly with the river in view outside.
We could have tried to get to a town, like everyone else on the trail was doing, but didn't want to pass up the chance to spend the night on the AT during a hurricane. It was a relaxing day overall, it kind of felt like a snow day.
Sorry I didn't update earlier, I didn't have cell service.
By morning, the brook rose several feet becoming an angry river that could have carried cars miles downstream and destroyed houses. Luckily we were safe above the high water mark, another reason we stayed there. Talking meant having to scream over the sound of the river and thunder that shook the floor, so we mostly stayed in the 18x8' shelter reading quietly with the river in view outside. We could have tried to get to a town, like everyone else on the trail was doing, but didn't want to pass up the chance to spend the night on the AT during a hurricane. It was a relaxing day overall, it kind of felt like a snow day.
Sorry I didn't update earlier, I didn't have cell service.
Forest Service Notice
Breakfast
It was a chilly night with clouds rolling through the windowless window frames this morning. The chipmunks were up early clattering their tiny claws across the stone floor looking for last night's crumbs. We slept well anyway, and slept in on accident. My alarm didn't go off, but we will still try to do 20 miles regardless of our late start.
As I'm typing this, Sixgun Wild (formerly Bambi) and I are singing Home by Edward Sharpe. It's sure to be a great day. Gotta go, it's time for my trumpet solo.
Late Night Rummy
Staying in a shelter tonight. It was already inhabited by chipmunks, but they seem cool with us crashing here.
Rummy has been a major source of entertainment for many weeks. This is the first night we've had a picnic table to play cards on, so after hiking to the peak of Mt. Killington to watch the sunset, we stayed up late playing. Maybe not a good idea since we have 20 miles to hike tomorrow.
Rummy has been a major source of entertainment for many weeks. This is the first night we've had a picnic table to play cards on, so after hiking to the peak of Mt. Killington to watch the sunset, we stayed up late playing. Maybe not a good idea since we have 20 miles to hike tomorrow.
Mount Killington
Rutland VT
Rutland is the third largest city in Vermont and I arrived a day earlier than the girls expected, so I didn't think I'd see them until this afternoon where we agreed to meet. I took a bus into town for fast food and right after I ordered they walked in the door. We've been hiking together so long, maybe we just instinctively end up together at night even when we aren't consciously trying to.
Tomorrow we pass the 500 mile mark. That seems like so much, but there are still 1,681 to go. People who have asked if we are going north or south often say, "Oh so you're just starting out then." Yet, somehow climbing dozens of mountains over 500 miles of trail feels like a lot.
Gotta Love Vermont
This was taken yesterday, but just noticed it never sent.
The terrain in Vermont has changed rather dramatically. Many rolling green hills, open fields, and dairy farms. Also many places with Vermont ice cream for sale.
Today will be my first higher mileage day since the foot injury. Per the doctor's request, I have taken some time off, and hiked low miles on the days I did hike. I also bought new boots and some Superfeet insoles. So far so good. Not 100% but I think I can do 22 miles today and get to Rutland tonight... maybe.
The terrain in Vermont has changed rather dramatically. Many rolling green hills, open fields, and dairy farms. Also many places with Vermont ice cream for sale.
Today will be my first higher mileage day since the foot injury. Per the doctor's request, I have taken some time off, and hiked low miles on the days I did hike. I also bought new boots and some Superfeet insoles. So far so good. Not 100% but I think I can do 22 miles today and get to Rutland tonight... maybe.
Beard Update
No shaving for two months. It's rather hideous, I know, and eating an ice cream cone isn't quite as clean and carefree as it once was. Be that as it may, I want to see where my face is going with this. I have to trust it knows what it's doing. I suppose it's no worse than the bandanna and headlamp.
The girls wanted to get off the trail for a couple of days so they hitched to Rutland, about 21 trail miles away. I went with them as far as Woodstock to have dinner. The restaurant didn't want to sit smelly hikers with the rest of their guests, so they sat us in the chairs where people normally sit to wait for a table. We ate hamburgers from plates sitting in our laps.
After we ate, I walked with them until they got a ride to Rutland, then hitched back to the trailhead. I wondered if hitching would be harder without the girls, but I got a ride pretty quickly. As my ride pulled away, a man on his front porch yelled out, "You wanna sleep in my barn tonight? You're welcome to it, and you can get your stuff dried off." It had been raining for most of the day, so I took the offer.
So, tonight it's just me in an old leaky barn, during a thunderstorm, reading a book... I feel like the boy in "The Neverending Story". Atreyu!!!!!!!
Anyway, I hope to meet back up with the girls tomorrow night.
The girls wanted to get off the trail for a couple of days so they hitched to Rutland, about 21 trail miles away. I went with them as far as Woodstock to have dinner. The restaurant didn't want to sit smelly hikers with the rest of their guests, so they sat us in the chairs where people normally sit to wait for a table. We ate hamburgers from plates sitting in our laps.
After we ate, I walked with them until they got a ride to Rutland, then hitched back to the trailhead. I wondered if hitching would be harder without the girls, but I got a ride pretty quickly. As my ride pulled away, a man on his front porch yelled out, "You wanna sleep in my barn tonight? You're welcome to it, and you can get your stuff dried off." It had been raining for most of the day, so I took the offer.
So, tonight it's just me in an old leaky barn, during a thunderstorm, reading a book... I feel like the boy in "The Neverending Story". Atreyu!!!!!!!
Anyway, I hope to meet back up with the girls tomorrow night.
Cloudland Farm
We heard this farm had a store that sold soda, and even though we knew they had been closed for two hours, we thought we'd try our luck. Our good luck hasn't changed. We ended up with soda, ice cream, and a free night's stay in this barn. We slept on the floor in a room that used to be their old farm store.
The hospitality and generosity of people on this trip has been so great that it is inspiring. Thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail is like a socially acceptable homelessness. I think the only real difference between us thru-hikers and the actual homeless is that we have a goal. I wonder if my luck would run out if I wasn't carrying this backpack and if I didn't tell people I was thru-hiking the AT. Maybe I'll test that out someday.
The hospitality and generosity of people on this trip has been so great that it is inspiring. Thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail is like a socially acceptable homelessness. I think the only real difference between us thru-hikers and the actual homeless is that we have a goal. I wonder if my luck would run out if I wasn't carrying this backpack and if I didn't tell people I was thru-hiking the AT. Maybe I'll test that out someday.

































