Totally Worth It

I really wanted to eat lunch in this field. The grass looked soft, it had a great view. The only problem was it was behind a 4' high barbed wire fence. 

I pushed down the wire with my hiking poles and carefully stepped over. When I lifted up my second leg, I slipped snapping the barbed wire into my leg like a bow and arrow.
I got a small puncture wound, but I finally had an excuse to use one of the band-aids my friend Shannon gave me before my trip.


Kilworth's Village Arts Centre

This church is now the Village Arts Centre, an intimate theater venue in the middle of the village of Kilworth

It was closed, but I opened the gate and let myself in to take pictures of the cemetery out back

When I bought my first SLR camera in 1999, the first place I went to try it out was a cemetery.

When I had to travel for work, I would look for more cemeteries to photograph.

They are easy places to get some good photos


And peaceful places to walk around

I like looking for small details.

Or interesting angles

Or the occasional big yellow door

Cloghleagh Castle

After resupplying in Fermoy, I setup camp with a view of Cloghleagh Castle. It was built by the Norman De Caunton family who arrived here in the 12th Century.

Later, the family came to be known as the Condons. In the 16th Century they took the side of the Earl of Desmond against the English Elizabethan forces in the Munster Rebellion and lost. Patrick Condon was subsequently pardoned and regained his estates, but later lost them to the Fleetwood family in 1622.

In the rebellion of 1641, the Condons retook the castle from the Fleetwood family, promising safe passage to those residing there if they surrendered. It's the least they could do, but they decided to go the extra mile and murder, wound, or imprison those who surrendered instead.

In 1643, the English forces retook the castle and the 38 occupants were "put to the sword."


I've seen the ruins of many old homes and castles on this trip, but for the first time since I got here, it felt real. I found myself staring at it, particularly the arrow slits spread throughout the tower. I couldn't help but imagine the whoosh and thud of arrows hitting the ground around me and the clash of swords.

The night was actually quiet, the grounds green and lush and peaceful, but it's hard to ignore its bloody past.

Next time you find yourself thinking we live in extraordinarily dangerous times, pick up any history book and read about any random period of time.

Blackwater Way Trail

This is a pine forest

Inside there was a light at the end of the tunnel

and a foot bridge

Back in civilization, I saw this castle. Can anyone help me remember the name of it?

Unlike the last night on gravel, this night was on soft spongy ground in a quiet forest


I've walked so much, I had to get foot transplants. The doctors say the different skin tones will blend after a few weeks.

Mount Leader House and Knocknakilla

The Mount Leader House, built in 1833

I felt so awkward, like when you barge into a room you didn't know was occupied, and they're all staring at you, and you don't know what to say, and you've eaten countless members of their species.

I unexpectedly walked passed Knocknakilla, a small group of prehistoric ritual monuments probably erected in the middle or late bronze age (1600-800 BCE). The alignment seems to be influenced by cycle of the sun or moon on the horizon. It's possibly a calendar used for harvest or fertility rituals and ceremonies. 
Regardless of what it was once used for, I used it as a place to have lunch.
I never figured out what this was exactly. Any guesses?
Not all my campsites are winners. The night before I had to setup in the dark, in the only place I could find where I'd be hidden. On gravel between a railroad and a highway.

Whatever It Is I'm Looking For

Since uprooting myself and leaving everything to backpack, on at least three different occasions now, someone has said to me, "I hope you find whatever it is you're looking for."

Some have something specific in mind. Others simply believe something must be missing in my life for me to be doing what I do. Either way, I know the phrase comes from love or concern, but honestly, I hope I never find whatever it is I'm looking for. I'm having too much fun looking.

Irish Farmland

Most of the Ireland I have seen, is this patchwork quilt of green and golden fields.

I think I've seen more sheep than people. I wonder if they know their butts are blue.

I took this photo in case something happened and I wanted to do an ironic post later.

But I never saw the bull, just this ninja cow who is not as good at stealth as it might think.

Hiking this trail means walking through a lot of private property, but nobody seems bothered by it.

Who could be upset when they live in paradise?!

Cow Mitosis

On the side of a country road, I stopped to take a picture of the cow staring at me. I pulled my camera out, popped off the lens cap, turned it on, held it up... and suddenly there were two cows. It startled me. Did the cow split into two? 

 I stared into those eyes. They know I'm a meat eater. I don't know how they know, but they know.

 "Come play with us," I could almost hear the music from The Shining with flashing visions of the bloody killing floor. "Come play with us, Ryan. Forever, and ever, and ever."

Irish Hospitality

Remember the family who I had tea with in the caravan? Margaret and Ciara were leaving Killarney while I was walking out of town, so they picked me up!

When we got to their house, Martin came out and knew the exact right thing to say, "You want a Guinness?" he said.

After the beer they fed me and we sat around the dinner table talking about differences between Ireland and the US. Then Ciara got out her violin and played a few tunes. Afterwards, they brought out a Irish drum called a Bodhrán and a banjo!

The next morning, Martin drove me back to where Margaret picked me up and I walked back to their house to stay a second night. 

Thank you, thank you, thank you for your hospitality and for giving me my third, fourth, and fifth Guinness in Ireland!

Ciara on the banjo and Martin playing an Irish drum called a Bodhrán

Ciara playing the violin

My room

This is Martin. I wish I would have gotten a picture with Margaret as well, but she had to work so I didn't see her before I left. Margaret, you should send me a picture with you and the family to my email ryan@abackpackerslife.com :-)

Although I didn't see Margaret again after dinner, she packed me a lunch to take with me!

Killarney National Park

Killarney National Park is Ireland's first national park.

This is Torc Waterfall

Built in 1843, The Muckross House and its 11,000 acres were donated to Ireland in 1932, which became the basis for what is now Killarney National Park. Interestingly, my current home would fit snugly inside of one of its fireplaces.

Killarney City Centre was too crowded for my taste. Pubs were shoulder to shoulder, and that's only if you shoved people out of your way with your shoulders.

Either way, it was still a good place to rest my feet, update the blog, and get some rest.

The Full Irish Breakfast

This is the traditional Full Irish Breakfast, which I've eaten many times since I've been in Ireland. Bacon, Sausage, Fried Egg, Beans, Toast, Tea or Coffee, and Chips.

Actually, chips aren't normally part of the Full Irish Breakfast, but I got those instead of black pudding. I didn't know what it was before I came here, but for those who don't know, black pudding is a patty made out of oatmeal and pork blood.

And I thought baked beans for breakfast was strange.

A Lime Kiln

Just off the trail near Lauragh, I saw a sign that said "Lime Kiln 100 meters."

I counted my steps, for some reason, and decided that it was more than 100 meters.

From a plaque in front, I learned that it was built in the early 1800s by Finin O'Sullivan, a prosperous and enterprising merchant who resided on the spot, where he also operated a tannery. In addition, and the part I found most interesting, he had two hookers carrying goods to and from Cork city.

I learned much later that a hooker in Ireland is a sort of sailing boat.

Care Package

Thank you Teri and Nik from Ohio for sending me homemade beef jerky.
It was delicious! I loved it!

First Day on the Kerry Way Trail

This is the long straight road out of Kenmare
Black face? In this day and age? That is so offensive.

When I turned to look at the view behind me, I nearly climbed over this fence to set camp on a hill. It was just so beautiful. Since I had a couple more hours of daylight, I convinced myself to keep going.

Have I mentioned I love Ireland?
The sun set, so I setup camp next to the road, the only
flat piece of ground suitable for a tent for the last few miles.

I didn't realize until after I set up, but just to the left of my tent, a sign clearly says "no camping." I would be up early, so didn't expect to see anyone. Then I saw a woman hiking down the trail. "Oh... Hello. I didn't think I would see anyone out here," she said. "Yeah me either," I said. "Which is why I felt safe setting up camp here."

Last Day on the Beara Way

I found a flat piece of bedrock and sat here for lunch.
West Ireland is full of great places to stop for lunch.

Sheep tend to run from me, but this old guy didn't budge.
If I had horns like that, I'd make my own rules too.

Ireland is as green as I imagined before arriving. What I didn't know is that it rarely snows. Although at about the same latitude as parts of Alaska, the Gulf Stream keeps Ireland mostly free of snow and ice.
I also found a lot of solitude and daily ocean views on the Beara Way. I'll miss this section, but there is a lot more to come.

Ardmore House B&B

Every person I talked to on my way to Kenmare in County Kerry said the same thing, "Did you hear about the storm heading our way?" So heavy rain and lightning were on my mind as I walked into Kenmare at sunset.

Kenmare was the first decent-sized town on my route, so it was also my first resupply. I needed groceries and some pills to help me sleep with nightly leg and foot pain. Kenmare is a tourist town with pubs packed with people late into the night. Finding a place to stealth camp may have been difficult, and there was still the matter of the storm.

I decided to book a room for the night. Thanks to a donation from James from Illinois, I was able to fit this into my budget. James picked up Red and I when we were hitchhiking across the US in May.

When I arrived, the owner Thomas immediately brought me a tray of coffee and biscuits. I grabbed the skeleton key out of my door and sipped my coffee in the living room while talking to Thomas about my trip and Ireland. He was great! That night, thunder cracked closely overhead and it poured harder than I've seen it pour in Ireland, so far. I was very thankful to be under a roof.

Thank you for your donation James!

Spotted some rowers when crossing Kenmare Bay on a suspension bridge,
which claims to be the first suspension bridge built in Ireland. 
You know how amazing this looks after living outdoors for a while?

Kenmare Town Centre

The Beara Way Trail

It was a hot day, especially for Ireland. Back on the road, while climbing to this spot, a man on a four wheeler stopped to offer me some water or tea. Since all I had was sun-brewed warm creek water, I happily accepted his offer.

Now that I'm beyond the Beara Peninsula, I miss all of these treeless views.

Although narrow and often quite dangerous, I love walking down the country roads in Ireland. You're always surrounded by wildflowers and thick green foliage. 

A cottage near the Northern Atlantic coast. Whether it's a small modest home or an expensive beautifully
landscaped home, you can be sure every house in Western Ireland will have a few sheep
or some cows hanging around.

The view from that same cottage.

Heading back into the hills (aka Irish mountains). The sheep seem to enjoy the views as much as me.

What the sheep was staring at.

Lamb and ram posing for the camera.

Another fantastic campsite!

Guinness Number Two

Thanks Jess from North Carolina for buying me Guinness number two!

A great pub in Kenmare. The best place I have eaten so far. I had the cottage pie.

The Beara Peninsula

Boats leaving the dock

A stray. We have a lot in common when you think about it.

Donkeys looking for a handout

"Look, I can make my nostrils go real big."

For a time, I had my own private beach. There's nothing like a cold swim to make you feel clean and refreshed. Well other than a shower I guess, but they are too heavy to carry.

I hope to retire to someplace like this. If I could ever stop spending all my money visiting places like this. 

The property owner was watching me take this.
Sometimes you just have to not care about that to get the shot you want.

In Ireland, they get as much use out of their things as possible.
If it ain't broke, don't replace it.
Ahh, why couldn't I have been born a sheep, I could live here!

A very common style of home in Southwest Ireland. A not so common view.

There are miles of coastline trail to be hiked on the Beara Way trail. Put this on your life list!

An interesting rock formation. I like how the nearly vertical strata shows that the earth is always moving. You would too if you were a nerd like me.

A wider angle

I had to camp on private property, but I don't think people care much about that in Ireland.
The wind was too strong at high elevation, so I had to get to lower ground, where there was nothing but private property, to setup camp.